1962 Plymouth Valiant
4 Door Sedan - 225 In-Line Slant 6 "Hillside Hemi" - 3 Speed Torqueflite Push
AM Push Button Radio - Heater - Cigarette Lighter - Vinyl Upholstery - A True
"Barn Find" As Found and Delivered by
C.A.S.H. Golf Carts /
Click for Larger
YouTube Video Of Valiant Starting & Running
(Most Recent First)
This is an "as time permits project" so it will take a bit
April 17 2014 - Tic - Toc Where does the time go?
Are we over this "Winter that doesn't want to end"
Again, this car amazes me. It sat inside, unheated, over our really cold winter (with a trickle charger on the 8 year old battery)
It's barely 40 but with one prime shot of gas it started right
I've got to finish a few other repairs/projects but one way or another I will get to this one before winter.
Nov 17 2013 - Temp is mid 60's - BUT
This is the Chicago area
Around here if you don't like the current weather just wait because we do have 4 seasons, sometimes all in the same day.
I think it's time to get this inside and winterized as my bones tell me winter is about to hit hard.
Maybe next year.
Sept 28 2012 - Received all the parts.
But Not Installed
This car amazes me I let sit for over 2 months and it starts right
up! Why did I buy all those parts?
Oh, Right because it has little or no brakes - but the emergency / parking
Soon, maybe before winter,
July 12 2012 - Lets make a parts order
For the Brakes - Upgrading for Safety
1) 1968 Dual non-power drum/drum Master Cylinder-
2) Wheel Cylinder Rebuild Kits -Front
2) Wheel Cylinder Rebuild Kits - Rear
2) Brake Hoses - Front
1) Brake Hose - Rear
1) 25 foot Roll of 3/16 Steel Brake Line
1) Quart D.O.T. 5 Silicone Brake Fluid
I have sourced Brake Shoes if needed but I believe the current ones to be near
new (Granny left receipt in glove box)
For the Ignition - Upgrading for Sanity!
Just look at where the MoPar designers put the distributor - Points need to
be adjusted/replaced from time to time and this location
turns any work to the distributor into a real P.I.T.A. - The answer is to
upgrade to another MoPar First from 1973 - Electronic Ignition.
Yes the 225 is the same and a 73 Dist will drop right in. Add a 73 or newer
control module and some wiring and you can forget
setting or changing points forever. Plus the engine starts faster, runs better
and cleaner and the spark plugs (resistor plugs work) last much longer.
A new cap, rotor and wires and this baby's set for years!
I will also change the Alternator (MoPar First in 1960) from a mechanical to the
later MoPar electronic. The electronic does a better job or regulation
with less circuit noise.
Part should arrive the middle of next week. I'll do pics and a video of the
July 09 2012 - Fresh oil, somewhat working
brakes and plans.
Since I last posted I've got this car to where I can get in, start 'er up,
and drive it in and out of the shop using the parking brake.
The fuel tank need to come out and have the sweat leaks under the hanger strap
repaired but the leak is so slow that it evaporates before
anything drips to the ground. I changed the engine oil and filter using 10W40
regular + 1 Qt of Synthetic to start the cleaning process.
For being 20+ year old oil it still made oil pressure and wasn't very dirty. I
replaced the long steel brake line to the rear brakes and
did a quick cleanout of the master cylinder so now it has at least 2 wheels with
working brakes, It does a third (Right Front) on hard stops
but then I have to backup to un-stick that brake. I've decided to upgraded the
brakes to a safer dual system master and do a complete job
replacing all steel and flex lines. I have not removed the brake drums yet but I
prefer to rebuild the wheel cylinders rather than replacing
them with new and questionable quality "global" sourced units. The master from a
68 Valiant (non-power drum/drum) is a direct bolt up
and, in fact, is the only change of the system that the factory did to meet
D.O.T specs in late 67-68. The wheel cylinders are the same bore
for 62 & 68 and there was no proportioning valve needed to balance the system
just a pressure balance warning switch which I will not bother with.
June 14 2012 - "Really? - It
should have run ! "
Thought about all this on my way home last night
and on the way in this morning. Got fuel, spark and enough compression what's
I'm convinced it's the spark plugs or maybe whoever/whenever installed these new
AC's mixed 2 wires. Checked the firing order - it's wired correctly.
But their resistors so lets stop adding fuel, open the throttle and choke wide,
leave them open and crank -
no fire but I stop cranking but keep the carb wide open. A few minutes passes
and I crank again - 1 cylinder wants to go -
I stopped for another couple of minutes while still holding the throttle wide open -
crank again - still 1 maybe 2 hits.
I repeated this several times - BAM! 5 seconds of run! but with no gas coming in
that's it. I opened the valve on the nurse tank - but no start - really?
I had added fuel directly into the float chamber via the vent tube before I
connected the nurse bottle so I did that again - BAM 30 seconds of run.
But it won't run on the nurse tank - that means the float is stuck or the
needle/seat is. Carb off and benched - sure enough it's both PLUS
someone put a rubber tip needle into this in the days when there was no ethanol
in gas but now it's swollen enough to lock it in the seat.
I found and mod'd a late model needle - did a quick clean up and assembled reusing the old
Installed and connected to the nurse tank and its started right up - YES! Good
idle and oil pressure, alternator works, sounds good -
revved it up and blew a bushel load of mouse house out the exhaust.
No brakes but the emergency brake kinda works so its once around the block and into
the shop and up on the lift.
NO Rot in the torque boxes or front sub frame. Brake lines rotted away, fuel
line about ready to go, gas tank is sweating gas from under
the strap (so that's why it was empty) a few small holes in the rear floor but
for this year and model the rust rot is like 1-3 years of Mid-west use.
Thank you South Dakota and Wisconsin for not using salt!
It's been another late night at the shop gonna be 8PM, again before I get out and
head home. but it was worth it.
Plus we got Tim's Geo Metro (which I made replacement lower A frame structures
welded in/up to support the front suspension) to drive off the lift today.
It just needs a few finishing touches - that's 3 Geo Metro's 3 bangers which are
good running 50 MPG cars but with the typical severe front
chassis rot they ALL had
that we saved and put back on the road in the last few years. - but that's another story!
Yea, it was a good day at the shop today!
June 13 2012 - "Well?
- The lift still has another project on it"
So I jacked it up outside and took all 4 wheels off.
that didn't know old MoPars tried to take off the left rear (reverse thread) and
busted 2 studs off.
Looks like granny's car was taken care of as I see recent (20 years ago) shocks
and exhaust and some steering bits.
I can't get under yet to see how much metal
is left but so far it looks better than I expected.
Anyway, I got the ancient tires off and found 4 used, mismatched radials in my
tire pile and mounted / installed them. It now rolls!
I been oiling and fogging the cylinders plus turning the crank by hand for a
week now so it was time to add a nurse bottle for fuel,
a fresh battery and hit the key. Surprise its cranks, slow, but OK but no start
due to no spark.
Points ya gotta love 'em - Yea they're corroded. The distributor is hard to get
to on these slant 6's the put it on the no room side - what were they thinking?
I filed them till they made contact and put it all back together but still no
fire - spray either no help.
But its got spark. maybe fouled plugs from all the lube I force fed in.
Pulled # 3 plug (easiest to get to) a brand new and clean AC gapped for a late
model and even worse it's a Resistor -
they don't fire when wet on points ignition.
No non resistor plugs in stock or at any of the local parts stores so I bypassed
the coil ballast which should boost the spark voltage a bit.
I was surprised that there wasn't any oil on the plug so I had Tim crank it with
the plug out - spun a little faster and blasted lots of fuel and
oil out of the open plug hole then it fired a few other cylinders and ran for
about 5 seconds - WOW, finally!
Put the plug back in but there didn't seem to be a "right" combination to get it
fired again. Gave up after 10 minutes -
battery getting low and my 200 Amp charger/booster was getting hot.
Enough for today its 8PM and I got to lock up and drive home.
June 6 2012 - "Holy Crap...It
still has rocker panels...???" !
Outside rockers at least - Ain't looked underneath yet! .
What can I say? Its so...ah...well...UNIQUE! - Yea I'm going with that.
Granny's car driven then parked in South Dakota then barn'd in Wisconsin for a
while then hauled to Illinois.
It looks to be all there except for the hub caps. Six Cylinder (Hillside Hemi),
Push Button Automatic, unmolested.
Tires are flat and shot and its now off the trailer and we're digging thru our
used tire pile to find four 13 inch narrow baldies that will hold air.
I can't wait to get this up on the lift so I can see the underside.
Here in winter Illinois uses salt on the roads and these Valiants began to rust
in their first winter.
Out west in the Dakotas I hear they use cinders so maybe that's why it's not
just a pile of rust..
In just a few Midwest winters most of these turned into Swiss-cheese underneath.
And for these early design unibodies that meant that
the cost of rust-rot repairs exceed value.
Add in the "unique" style and most of these were off to the "Bone
Yard" and a very young age.
I'll put up pictures, findings and where I think this project may be heading
just as soon as I get this in the shop and up on the lift.